Filament Temperature Guide: Nozzle & Bed Settings by Material
Updated 2026-06-11 · by Jay
Every material has a temperature window, not a number. Inside the window you trade surface quality against layer strength; outside it you get stringing on the hot side and under-extrusion or delamination on the cold side.
Quick reference
| Material | Nozzle | Bed | Enclosure |
|---|---|---|---|
| PLA | 190–220°C | 50–60°C | No |
| PLA+ / tough PLA | 200–230°C | 50–60°C | No |
| PETG | 230–250°C | 70–85°C | No |
| ABS | 240–270°C | 90–110°C | Yes |
| ASA | 240–270°C | 90–110°C | Yes |
| TPU | 210–235°C | 30–60°C | No |
| Nylon (PA) | 250–280°C | 70–100°C | Recommended |
| Polycarbonate | 270–310°C | 100–120°C | Yes |
Every filament page on FilaScope lists the manufacturer's actual range for that specific product — use it over any generic table, including this one.
Why the window matters
Hotter = better layer bonding, faster flow, shinier surface — but more stringing, more sag on overhangs, and duller detail. Cooler = crisper detail and cleaner bridges — but weaker layers, and eventually clicking extruders and gaps.
Dial in a new spool in one print
Print a temperature tower (one model, stepped temperatures). Look for the step where stringing stops AND layers still bond when you try to snap the tower at each band. That's your number for this spool on this printer. Write it on the spool with a marker — future you will be grateful.
Speed changes everything
Modern fast printers (Bambu, K1, etc.) push filament through the melt zone in a fraction of the old dwell time. If you've upgraded from a 60mm/s machine, expect every material to want the upper half of its window — it's the single most common reason "old reliable settings" fail on new hardware.